
Beauty
If Your Scalp Won't Chill Out, It Might Be Seborrheic Dermatitis
Getting to the root of your hair struggles.
Understanding your hair and its unique needs can feel like a Sisyphean task, with factors like texture, density, color, and more shaping what you do — and don’t — need for the healthy, radiant hair of your dreams. But even the most well-versed beauty aficionados often overlook one major component: scalp care.
If you’ve ever felt frustrated that your high-end, strand-saving products still don’t keep you from getting itchy and flaky, it may be time to take a fine-tooth comb and look a little deeper. You’ve likely heard the term dermatitis used for the skin, but did you know your scalp's delicate microbiome can face the same struggles? If you’re at your wits' end with a scalp that won’t calm down, a chronic skin condition could be at the crux of your issues. Not to fear, though. Plenty of routine switches and small daily tweaks can ease scalp stress.
Ahead, dermatologists, trichologists, and scalp experts explain seborrheic dermatitis, how to recognize the symptoms, and the steps you can take to help your scalp feel calmer.
What Is Seborrheic Dermatitis?
“Seborrheic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory condition that results in red, flaky areas especially on the scalp, eyebrows, and around the nose,” explains board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dawn Queen.
Board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Dr. Joel Schlessinger adds that seborrheic dermatitis is essentially the medical term for dandruff of the scalp, but can occur anywhere there is a high concentration of oil glands. “Seborrheic dermatitis is caused by an overgrowth of the Malassezia yeast that normally lives on the skin,” Joel Schlessinger says. “It causes flaking, irritation, itching, and dry skin, and can even cause hair loss if it goes on for a long time. Most people don’t know that it can also affect the face, in particular the eyebrows and creases around the nose where there is more oil buildup.”
While seborrheic dermatitis can present on the scalp, face, and body, understanding how it shows up on the head is important to navigating your journey to a calm, healthy scalp. Board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon (and son of Dr. Joel Schlessinger) Dr. Daniel Schlessinger explains that “on the scalp, seborrheic dermatitis usually looks like dry, flaking patches.” In severe forms, “you might get thick, silvery clumps of flakes, called tinea amiantacea, after the Latin name for asbestos.” Queen also notes that in darker skin types, seborrheic dermatitis flare-ups may appear as “hypopigmented flaky patches rather than red ones.”
Where Does Seborrheic Dermatitis Come From?
There’s nothing more confusing and frustrating than when your skin starts changing out of nowhere, but all of our experts confirm that seborrheic dermatitis can arise or flare up at any time. “Seborrheic dermatitis can occur at any age and can appear during adulthood for the first time, even if someone has never had it before,” says Queen. “It tends to have a relapsing course with periods of flares and periods of quiescence,” with triggers that range from cold or dry weather, skin barrier disruption, illness, and stress.
“In many cases there isn’t one identifiable trigger, and it can come on seemingly out of nowhere,” she says. Joel Schlessinger explains that the well-known infant phenomenon of “cradle cap” is actually a classic case of seborrheic dermatitis.
Treating Seborrheic Dermatitis: Routine Tweaks to Soothe a Stressed Scalp
If it sounds like seborrheic dermatitis might be what you’re dealing with, there are tons of easy, practical lifestyle changes you can make to help manage your symptoms. To start, board-certified trichologist and founder of Caspara Hair Preservation Studio, Shab Caspara recommends not going too long between wash days. “Stretching time between washes lets oil and yeast build up, and that buildup leads to inflammation,” she says. “For most people, washing every one to two days makes a big difference.” Caspara also recommends turning down the temperature when you do wash. “Hot water strips the scalp's natural barrier and can disrupt its microbiome, which makes an already-reactive scalp act out even more,” she says. “Lukewarm water is your friend.”
For board-certified trichologist and cosmetologist Aga Tompkins, the best thing you can do for seborrheic dermatitis on the scalp is stop leaving your scalp out of your beauty routine. “Your scalp is skin, and it needs its own routine,” she says. “Avoid aggressively scratching or picking at flakes,” Tompkins and Caspara both urge clients. “It can feel satisfying in the moment, but damaging an already irritated skin barrier can create more inflammation.”
Tompkins also recommends taking a closer look at the ingredients in your scalp-care routine, just as you would for your skin care. “When the goal is maintaining a healthy scalp environment, I like to see ingredients that support hydration, the skin barrier, oil balance, and gentle removal of buildup,” she explains. “For example, niacinamide is commonly used in scalp-care formulas to support the skin barrier and help with oil balance, while panthenol and aloe can support hydration. Ingredients like lactic acid can provide gentle exfoliation to help loosen excess buildup when appropriate, and botanical ingredients such as green tea, jojoba, and tea tree are also commonly found in scalp-care formulas focused on maintaining a balanced environment.”
Another key component of a healthy scalp, Caspara says, is avoiding letting your scalp stay damp. Whether after a shower or a workout, make sure to dry your scalp completely to avoid creating a breeding ground for yeast and buildup. Caspara also emphasizes a holistic approach to scalp health. “Diets high in sugar and alcohol can increase oil production and fuel inflammation, which gives the yeast more to feed on,” she says. “Cutting back, along with managing stress and getting good sleep, can noticeably reduce flares.”-
All in all, giving your scalp the attention it deserves can make the biggest difference in pursuit of itch- and flake-free hair, but don’t beat yourself up if your scalp isn’t “perfect” after making these tweaks. Even so, Tompkins assures that a healthy scalp is not necessarily a completely flake-free scalp. “It is a scalp with an intact barrier, minimal inflammation, and an environment that is being appropriately managed for that individual,” she says.
At the same time, Tompkins emphasizes the importance of not letting symptoms go undiagnosed for too long. If symptoms continue despite making routine changes, that is the point where she recommends getting an accurate diagnosis from a dermatologist or qualified scalp professional. “Do not normalize a scalp that is persistently itchy, painful, burning, excessively flaky, or inflamed,” Tompkins says. “Not every flaky scalp is seborrheic dermatitis, and getting the diagnosis right is the first step toward managing it appropriately.”
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